A few months after getting better, a friend’s friend unexpectedly invited her on a cross country trip to BC. It was a “once in a lifetime chance” that would allow her to travel across the country for free. The answer to this question was clearly YES. Lydia moved out of her apartment, stored the little she had with her parents (with the intention of coming home after the trip to begin school again), and hit the road.
On the way to BC, they heard about the small surf town Tofino located on Vancouver Island. At the time, Lydia had no idea surfing even existed in Canada. They changed course to check it out, and six years later, Lydia still calls the small town of 2,000 people home.
Already obsessed with surfing, she began to build her life around it, starting with a 6 am wake up call every day to get a surf in before work. That consistent water time led to a quick progression of skills and an intro to other surfers in the community. After watching the Queen of the Peak competition (which takes place in Tofino), she took her commitment a step further and signed up for her first competition. For Lydia, the competition was never about winning. It was about learning. Surrounding herself with better surfers helped her push herself. Competition was simply the motivator for getting better. For the next four years, Lydia competed locally two times a year. The most challenging part of the competition for her wasn’t the surf, it was navigating her own emotions.
When I asked her what she remembered about her first competition, Lydia said, “It was terrifying and I wanted to puke the whole time. The waves were big, or big for me at the time. I was so so nervous. I was with two other girls that were also competing for the first time and we were all looking at each other like, what are we doing? What’s happening?! But it was really fun. Once the twenty minutes were over I was really happy I did it.” (And in case you were wondering, she didn’t end up puking.)