What advice would you give to other surfers or artists who have to pause doing things in order to be able to rest, heal, or even live?
I would tell them to be patient, for me it was important to do little things. The pain, the fatigue and a strong medication, makes you stay in bed for a long time and It can be very hard and desperate, even sometimes you don't see a way out, but you don't have to give up. In the moments in which I was better, I drew a little, and I pointed out ideas for projects, etc. I went little by little, one day I drew a little sketch or just a line and other day I went to the beach just to see the ocean. My medication and rest helps me mostly in recovering, but doing those little steps make me feel better, help me to distract my mind from my illness and make me believe that I can go back to work and surf. I would tell them not to worry if one day the only thing that they do it is just can grab a pencil a drawing a little line or nothing, or just put your swimsuit on, because those little steps are important.